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| 0129 |
Sand-Buried Ruins of Khotan : vol.1 |
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Tiznaf to the North-West, and make for a low pass over the spur
which descends in the angle formed by the two rivers. From
the top of the Shush or Kum-Dawan ("the Sandy Pass"),
though it scarcely exceeds 12,000 feet in height, there opened
an extensive view over the Tashkurghan Valley southwards.
The distant snowy peaks, half-enveloped in clouds, which rose
behind it in the South, were the last glimpse I had of the
border of India. The view to the North was still more exten-
sive. The great mass of Muztagh-Ata, with its mantle of ice,
rose up clearly from the broad valleys which encircle its base
on the west and south. Imposing as the great mountain
looks from its mass and its crown of glaciers, it did not seem
to me from this distance to equal in grandeur and picturesque
form those mountain giants of the Himalaya I had seen,
Nangaparbat, Mount Godwin Austen ("K.2"), Rakiposhi, still
less Kinchanjanga. The fact that the relative elevation of
the highest dome of Muztagh-Ata above the broad, undulating
plain of Tagharma at its southern foot is only about 14,000
feet, largely accounts for this; equally, perhaps, also the
absence of boldness in its form, and the great height of the
permanent snow-line which towards the south does not seem
to reach down much below 17,000 feet.
After the world of soaring peaks, glaciers, and deep gorges,
through which the way from India had taken me, I felt it
difficult to believe myself still in an Alpine world in view of
the broad, rolling plains before me and of the low-looking
ranges which fringe them towards the Pamir. It was a
novel type of mountain scenery that greeted me, and I
confess it looked somewhat tame by the side of the views
which have indelibly impressed themselves on my memory
between Kashmir and the Taghdumbash. A descent of
about one thousand feet brought me to the irrigated fields of
Tagharma, which were clothed in the fresh green of young
shoots of oats and barley. Without raising one's eyes to
Muztagh-Ata I might have thought myself on the steppe of
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