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| 0130 |
Sand-Buried Ruins of Khotan : vol.1 |
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some northern region. The felt-covered Kirghas scattered
over the plain did not dispel this impression; the yaks
contentedly grazing on the young grass of the meadows were
the sole feature suggestive of the high elevation at which we
still moved. Safsgos, where I encamped for the night, is one
of the small Sarikoli summer settlements spread over the
Tagharma plain. The inhabitants of the three Kirghas, as
far as I could see them, the men and children, were all
singularly good-looking. Milk and delicious cream were
obtainable in plenty.
On the morning of July 11th the air was comparatively still
and warm, and only the highest parts of Muztagh-Ata were
enveloped in clouds. Riding along the open grassy plain I
enjoyed distant views, both to the East and West. In the
latter direction the passes of Ghulan, Sarik-tash, and Berjash (or
Berdasht), all leading across the range into Russian territory,
came consecutively into view. Though snow-covered on the
highest shoulders over which they pass, these routes are all
evidently easy enough at this season. Near the small hamlet
of Sarala, where Sarikolis carry on some cultivation, we
passed a little Chinese post, enclosed by loopholed mud
walls. It is intended to maintain some control over the
small detachments of Sarikoli levies ('Karaulchi,' as they
are called) which guard the approaches from the Russian side.
After Sarala cultivation ceased, and the irrigated grassy
ground became more and more cut up by patches of sandy
soil scantily covered with hardy herbs. The few Yürts we
now passed were tenanted by squalid-looking but jovial
Kirghiz herdsmen. After Kukyar the route enters a broad
stony nullah, enclosed East and West by low walls of con-
glomerate, which looked like remains of ancient moraines.
Above them to the east towered the snow-capped heights
of a great spur known as Karakorum, which projects from
Muztagh-Ata southwards. By noon a strong wind began to
blow down from the north, and I was glad to reach the little
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