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| 0133 |
Sand-Buried Ruins of Khotan : vol.1 |
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of the passes, so well known to me from beyond Kashmir,
could be seen sitting, with seeming unconcern, on the little
mounds over their holes.
At 11.30 a.m. I reached the pass, which seems to be only
a slight depression in a broad transverse ridge connecting the
Muztagh-Ata massive with the so-called Sarikoli range, the
eastern brim of the Russian Pamirs. The pass, a little over
14,000 feet above the sea, is marked by a stone heap, the
traditional resting-place of some saint. Popular lore about
mountain passes does not seem to differ much northwards of
the great Himalayan watershed from what I know it to be on
the other side. Heavy mist on right and left prevented a
view of the higher ranges, but just in front to the North I
could look down into the open, flat valley which descends to
Subashi and the Little Karakul Lake. I had not far advanced
on the small spur over which the path leads steeply down-
wards, when icy-cold rain, mixed with snow, began to come
down again. It was far heavier than before, and by the time
I passed the first Aul (herdsmen's camp), called Igrikyök at
the bottom of the hill amphitheatre, I felt nearly drenched.
However, there was little hope of the weather getting better,
and I therefore deemed it best to push on to Su-bashi ("Head
of the Waters"), the Chinese post in the valley, where better
shelter and supplies could be expected. In the drizzling rain
I passed some half-decayed Kirghiz graveyards and a stone-
built Gumbaz, evidently the remains of some older structure.
At last, by 2 p.m., the Chinese post came in view, and
with heartfelt gratitude I greeted its shelter. Inside a
neglected stone enclosure I found, besides a number of tumble-
down buildings, a row of mud-built huts, representing the
quarters of the garrison. The latter soon emerged in its full
strength of eight men, and their commandant, a sort of
corporal, hospitably invited me to his state-room. It was,
in truth, a poor enough hovel, lighted by a hole in the roof
which, closed on account of the rain, admitted only a dim
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