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| 0145 |
Sand-Buried Ruins of Khotan : vol.1 |
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stretches up in apparently unbroken line to the northern
summit. The corresponding ridge on the south side of the
glacier could be seen to be coated with a huge crust of old ice,
which, furrowed by crevasses up to the very highest summit,
manifestly left no chance of ascent. The rocky spur which
this mantle of ice covers, rises above the glacier in an almost
perpendicular face of cliff several thousand feet high. The rock
wall on the opposite, northern side of the Yambulak Glacier,
is not only lower, but its slope is less steep and seemed less
encrusted with ice. Further to the north the sides of the
mountain are far more precipitous and packed with glaciers.
My preliminary examination of the northern ridge which Dr.
Hedin had followed in his three attempts to ascend Muztagh-
Ata, fully bore out his description, except in one important
particular. His ascents in 1894 had taken him along ground
that up to a height he estimated at over 20,000 feet, was almost
clear of snow. But now I could not fail to note even from a
distance that snow of considerable depth covered the identical
ridge down to a level of less than 17,000 feet. Satip Aldi,
my Kirghiz guide, who had accompanied Dr. Hedin on
one of his ascents, was aware of a change which the heavy
snowfall of the last two years had brought about in the con-
dition of this part of the mountain. It was evident that I
could not possibly hope to reach the height to which that
distinguished explorer's party had ridden up on yaks, in the
same convenient manner.
The night from the 17th to the 18th of July was spent in
camp near the few Yurts in the upper part of the valley which
bears the name of Yambulak. Reckoning with the increased
difficulties which deep snow was likely to offer, I decided to
obtain spare yaks for myself and the men who were to accom-
pany me. Animals broken for riding were secured after some
delay, and it was only by 7 a.m. on the following morning
that I was able to move off. An hour later I had reached the
foot of the great moraine which flanks the lower portion of the
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