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Sand-Buried Ruins of Khotan : vol.1 |
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Karakul, its depth there reaching 4 to 5 feet. The rest of
the march lay alternately over stony "alluvial fans" spread-
ing in front of the glaciers which descend from the great icy
range eastwards, and over narrow strips of rich meadow land
fringing here and there the steeply-cut conglomerate banks.
The flora seemed more or less the same as about Karakul,
but the growth and the scent of the herbs growing in these
sheltered nooks was stronger.
It was close on 8 p.m. when I reached my camp pitched
near the Chinese post of Bulunkul on the swampy piece
of meadowland that fills a bend of the river. The military
Amban of the place is supposed to watch the neighbouring
passes which lead across to Rang-kul and adjoining parts
of the Russian Pamirs. From the report brought to me
he seemed little inclined to help me on my journey.
Though he sent fuel and a sheep as a present, Osman
Beg, the influential headman of the Kirghiz grazing in the
neighbourhood, to whom I had been recommended from
Tashkurghan, found it advisable to pay his visit by stealth
and under the cover of darkness. Next morning the attitude
of the Amban made itself palpably felt. Karm Shah Beg's
men, with their ponies, which had brought part of my
baggage from Karakul, had disappeared during the night.
To move on with the five Kashgar animals (the rest I had
left for Ram Singh's camp) was manifestly impossible. From
the Amban, to whom I sent, came nothing but a rude reply,
leaving it to my own choice how I should make my way
beyond. I thought of Dr. Sven Hedin, who had met with an
even worse reception at Bulunkul, and consoled myself with
the conjecture that possibly the climate of the place disagrees
with the liver of successive Chinese commandants.
Fortunately the Amban's obstructiveness was purely
passive. I found little difficulty in persuading his inter-
preter ('Tolmach') that it was to his material advantage
to supply the needful animals. He took the hint, and by
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