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| 0171 |
Sand-Buried Ruins of Khotan : vol.1 |
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bright yellow and brown looked singularly neat in this setting
of gardens and orchards. Here and there a cemetery with
tombs of sun-dried bricks and a crumbling mosque or Ziarat
built of the same material added a picturesque touch to the
rural landscape. The high-pitched songs of my pony-men as
we moved at a rapid amble through the lanes always brought
the children and women before the doors of their homesteads.
The men were busy in the fields, and until we got to the
Bazar of Tokuzak I saw scarcely any grown-up person that
was not occupied in some way. We had so far suffered little
from the dust, for the route we had followed was not the high-
road from Tashmalik, but a more circuitous track connecting
hamlet with hamlet. But at last we emerged on the road and
found it as dusty as it was broad. High lumbering carts or
'Arabas' dragged along by little ponies and droves of
donkeys kept up a continuous cloud. I was getting eager to
reach the end of the journey and too readily gave credence to
Sadak Akhun, who about 5 p.m. assured me that Kashgar
was now within one 'Tash's' distance. I had not yet
learned that, away from the main caravan roads where the
Chinese administration has marked the distances of ten 'Li'
(approximately two miles) by small mud-built towers popularly
known as 'Tash' (stone), this measure in Turkestan conveys
only the vaguest estimate of distance.
It was disappointing when after an hour's ride there was
still no sign of the river-bed which I knew we should have to
cross before approaching the town. At last at a turn of the
road a broad nullah came in sight, with a shallow stream.
But beyond it no trace of walls, Minars or other tokens of an
Eastern city. The river was not the Kizil-su which flows past
Kashgar, but only a branch of it known as Ak-su ("White
Stream") or Telwichnk. Another three miles or so of end-
less rice fields seemed a long distance in the failing light and
on the tired ponies. But at last they too came to an end, and
we forded the truly red water of the Kizil-su ("Red Stream").
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