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| 0181 |
Sand-Buried Ruins of Khotan : vol.1 |
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Disturbing rumours about the conflict with the European
Powers had already in July spread through the Bazars of
Kashgar, and just a week before my arrival a feeling of mutual
apprehension and distrust threatened for a moment to bring
about a collision between the Muhammadan population and the
Chinese garrison quartered in the Yangi-Shahr, or "New
City." The commotion luckily died away when it was found
that the Chinese Commander-in-Chief, whose visit to the "Old
City" with an unusual escort had given rise to alarm, had
only come to play a harmless game of cards at the Hsieh-tai's
Yamen! The recollections of the last great rebellion against
Chinese rule (1863–77) have, indeed, not disappeared from the
"New Dominions"; but the peaceful cultivators of the oases
and the easily cowed petty traders and artisans of the towns
have little reason to wish back the times when the turbulent
'Andijanis' carried on their exactions in the name of Islam.
Kashgar, since the days of Sir Douglas Forsyth's mission,
has so frequently received the visits of European travellers
that I may be excused from attempting within the limited
space of this narrative to describe the general features and
life of the city. Most of my time was spent in busy work at
Chini-Bagh; and to the little oasis of Anglo-Indian civiliza-
tion which my kind hosts had created around themselves cling
my main recollections of Kashgar. There was little contact
with the outer world to vary the pleasant round of our daily
life. Though the worst of the summer heat of the Turkestan
plains had passed, it was still warm enough during the middle
part of the day to make the freshness of the morning particu-
larly attractive for work. So I was regularly astir with the
break of day, and 6 a.m. found me established beside my
books and papers under the tall poplars of the terraced garden.
The fruit season had fully begun. The closely planted
apricot-, peach-, and plum-trees of the orchard occupying the
upper terrace were already bending low under an abundance
of luscious fruit; while a little later a fine bower of vines
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