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| 0193 |
Sand-Buried Ruins of Khotan : vol.1 |
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Yarbagh Gate of the city and along the foot of its northern
walls. Then the river had to be crossed by the bridge of
Tarbugaz, with its picturesque little Minars at either end. It
was no market day, yet the stream of mounted peasants, droves
of loaded donkeys and ponies that passed through the adjoin-
ing Bazars, might elsewhere have suggested a great fair.
Where the road, flanked by cemeteries, turns off to Hazrat
Apak's shrine, the true Via Appia of Kashgar, I overtook the
camels, and then rode on between suburban gardens and through
shaded village lanes northwards to Beshkarim. This large
collection of hamlets which lies on the caravan route towards
the distant Narym and which has since terribly suffered in
the great earthquake of 1902, was reached about midday.
In the central village, known as Beshkarim Bazar, a
grand reception awaited me. There was the Beg of the
little district, a cheerful Kashgari dressed in orthodox Chinese
fashion, ready to welcome me, and on the terrace of his
'Yamen,' under shady elms, a plentiful 'Dastarkhan' of
fruit, tea, and sweetmeats. It was a pleasure to sit down in
the airy verandah and to partake of the delicious fruit then
abounding all over the country. For my companions and
servants there was no lack of more substantial refreshments
in the form of soups, large plates of mutton, and mountains
of flat cakes. The broad market-place in front was filled
with men and ponies, each village headman summoned for
the occasion having evidently brought a little troop of
mounted followers. To walk on foot is an exertion left in
these parts only to the poorest.
At Beshkarim Bazar nearly an hour passed, there being no
need to hurry on in the heat of the sun before the baggage
turned up. Then we mounted and with a following swelled
by the local Beg's people and the headmen under him, pur-
sued our eastward way. For some eight miles the road
wound through highly cultivated strips, along irrigation canals
of varying size, all fringed with rows of poplars and willows.
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