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| 0211 |
Sand-Buried Ruins of Khotan : vol.1 |
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our ponies to graze awhile in the few lucerne fields. By
2 p.m. Kizil was reached, a large village on the main road
that connects Kashgar with Yarkand. The sight of its green
fields and gardens was truly delightful after the mournful
desert behind us. My servants made straight for the Chinese
rest-house and seemed surprised when I objected to putting
up at that dusty caravanserai, with its courtyards full of
carts, donkeys, ponies, and their attendants. Sadak Akhun
gravely asserted that the 'Sahibs' coming from Kashgar
"always" stopped there. But then I came from Hindustan,
and had learned by long experience that the places where
"everybody" camps are usually the least attractive. So I
set out to search for a camping-ground, and after a while
found what I had looked for. A charming little orchard
surrounded by open fields gave room and shade for my tent,
while the owner hospitably welcomed my followers in his
house a short distance off. Grapes and excellent peaches
were soon forthcoming, and I feasted on them in honour of
my return from a first visit to the desert.
The following day, the 16th of September, was spent on a
long march through an arid waste to Kok-robat, the western
limit of the great oasis of Yarkand. For a distance of close
on twenty-four miles there was neither a tree nor even a shrub
to be seen, only the gravel-covered grey 'Dasht' far away
to the dusty horizon. As we were now on a post route I
found a square, mud-built tower marking each 'Potai,' the
Chinese road measure equivalent to ten 'Li.' As the Potai
seems to correspond closely to a distance of two English miles
it is evident that the value of about one-fifth of a mile still
holds good for the Li in Turkestan, as it does by computation,
for the road distances recorded in India by Hinen-Tsiang and
other Chinese pilgrims.
I stopped awhile at midday at Ak-robat ("the White
Station"), a solitary Sarai in the desolate waste. I found
the little rest-house within the enclosure, evidently intended
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