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| 0215 |
Sand-Buried Ruins of Khotan : vol.1 |
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Khattris from various parts of the Punjab, whom I felt
tempted to greet as quasi-countrymen; men from Jammu
territory, equally familiar to me; and a sprinkling of
Muhammadan Kashmiris, of whom there is quite a settled
colony here. They were all in their best dresses, decently
mounted, and unmistakably pleased to greet a 'Sahib.' So
it was only natural that they wished to make some show of
him. Accordingly I was escorted in great style through the
whole of the Yangi-Shahr, or "New City," and the Bazars
that connect it with the old one. Our clattering cavalcade
was undoubtedly a little event for the people that thronged
the Bazars. These all seemed broad and fairly clean; in
point of picturesqueness far more attractive than those of
Kashgar.
Then we turned off to the right and rode round the
crenellated walls of the "Old City" into an area of suburban
gardens. Here lies the Chini-Bagh which Mr. Macartney
had in advance engaged for my residence. It proved quite a
summer-palace within a large walled-in garden. Passing
through a series of courts, I was surprised to find a great hall
of imposing dimensions, with rows of high wooden pillars
supporting its roof. Beyond it I entered a series of raised
apartments, once the reception-rooms of Niaz Hakim Beg,
the original owner of these palatial quarters. There was no
mistaking the marks of departed glory. The gilding of the
latticework screens separating the rooms had faded, and
other signs of neglect were numerous. Yet good carpets
covered the floors and the raised platforms; tasteful dados ran
along the walls, and over the whole lay an air of solemn
dignity and ease. When alone in my temporary mansion I
felt the reality of the charms which such an abode offers even
more than I had in the old Moghul and Sikh garden-resi-
dences, once my favourite haunts in the Campagna of Lahore.
The days which followed my arrival at Yarkand passed
with surprising rapidity. I had intended from the first a stay
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