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| 0248 |
Sand-Buried Ruins of Khotan : vol.1 |
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pigeons kept at the shrine are propitiated with food offer-
ings by all modern wayfarers manifestly marks a survival
of the Buddhist legend. Just like Hiuen-Tsiang's rats, so
now the holy pigeons which have taken their place are
supposed to recall the memory of a great victory. It was in
fact the first striking instance of that tenacity of local worship
which my subsequent researches showed for almost all sacred
sites of Buddhist Khotan. In Kashmir and on the Indus it
had been no small advantage for me to find the position of
old Buddhist or Hindu shrines I was in search of marked
invariably by Muhammadan Ziarats. So I might well take it
for an auspicious omen that my entry into Khotan territory
brought me across a pious local custom which the Muham-
madans of this region had derived from their Buddhist
ancestors.
Three miles beyond this curious shrine the road emerged
from the sandy billows on to a low-lying marshy plain.
Here we halted near the solitary hut of Tarbugaz Langar.
The news of my coming had preceded me from Pialma. So
late in the evening I received the visit of the Beg of Zawa,
the next village tract. He was a fine-looking, genial old
man, and I appreciated his kindly welcome on this my first
night on the soil of Khotan. Camels and baggage ponies had
felt the length of the previous day's march. So I decided to
divide the remainder of the journey into two short stages.
Soon after leaving Tarbugaz cultivated ground was entered,
and three miles from it I passed the mud fort which was
erected in Yaqub Beg's time, closing the road to Zawa, the
first large village of Khotan.
From there onwards there lay an unbroken succession of
gardens, hamlets and carefully cultivated fields on both sides.
The road itself is flanked by shady avenues of poplars and
willows for almost its whole length. Autumn had just turned
the leaves yellow and red on most of the trees, and after the
monotonous khaki of the desert marches this display of
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