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| 0249 |
Sand-Buried Ruins of Khotan : vol.1 |
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colour was doubly cheerful. On the road the dust lay ankle
deep. It was easy to realise the vicinity of a great trade
centre from the lively traffic which passed us. I saw strings
of donkeys carrying 'Zhubas,' the lambskin coats for the
manufacture of which Khotan is famous. Few, indeed, were
the passers-by that did not ride on some kind of animal—
pony, donkey, or bullock. To proceed to any distance on foot
must seem a real hardship even to the poorer classes. No
wonder that the people see no reason to object to the
ridiculously high heels of their top boots. When riding the
inconvenience cannot be felt. But to see the proud
possessors of such boots waddle along the road when obliged
to use their legs is truly comical.
Some seven miles from Zawa I passed the stony bed of the
Kara-kash ("Black-jade") Darya, the second main river of
Khotan. Its bed, fully three-quarters of a mile broad,
betokened the great volume of water it carries down in the
summer from the glaciers towards the Karakorum. But at
this season the river, diminished no doubt by the demands of
irrigation, finds room in a single channel, about 30 yards
broad and 1 to 2 feet deep. I was delighted to come at a
distance of about a mile and a half beyond upon a second
river-bed, that of a branch of the Kara-kash known as the
Yangi-Darya, "the New River." Whatever the age of the
designation may be, the position of this bed agrees most
accurately with the accounts which Chinese historical records
give as to the rivers west of the old capital of Khotan. The
site of "Borazan," which I knew to contain in all probability
the remains of this ancient capital, lay too far off the road to
be visited immediately.
In one of the hamlets of Sipa, east of the "New River," I
found a garden that offered a quiet camping-ground. While
watching the unloading of my baggage I was not a little
surprised by the appearance from a neighbouring house of a
man chained by the neck to a heavy iron rod of almost his
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