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Sand-Buried Ruins of Khotan : vol.1 |
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need even for the little diplomacy which elsewhere is usually
required to save oneself this chance of catching cold.
Ujat is a large village, its straggling dwellings surrounded
by grape-gardens, for which it is famous. The dried grapes
and currants of the place are said to find their way as far as
the markets of Aksu, Kashgar, and Turfan. The vines are
trained, as throughout Chinese Turkestan, along low fences,
ranged in parallel lines. The work of covering up the stems
with earth for the winter was just proceeding. The people of
Ujat seem to have retained for a long time after the accep-
tance of Islam the reputation of being weak in the faith and
addicted to heretical ways. I wonder whether the extensive
cultivation of the vine has something to do with this.
My local inquiries and the arrival of a long-expected mail
from Kashgar, which brought me home and Indian letters of a
whole month and required early disposal, helped to detain me
at Ujat. But on the 15th of November I marched back to
Khotan by the shortest route, crossing the bleak pebble
'Sai' that stretches from the Kohmari ridge to the southern
edge of the cultivated area near the village of Kosa. I was
surprised to find how rapidly the fertile tract towards the city
had assumed its winter aspect. The long alleys of poplars
and willows stood leafless; the same storm that put a stop to
our survey work on the mountains had brushed away the
bright autumn colours which greeted me on my first descent
to the Kara-kash.
At Khotan it became necessary to make a short halt in
order to give to my men and ponies the rest they required
after the month of fatiguing marches. I also wanted time for
the examination of the antiques which had found their way
from various localities into the hands of the agents sent out
on my behalf after my first visit. The small parties despatched
to ancient sites in the desert also turned up with their spoil
during my week's stay. The party which had gone out under
the guidance of Turdi, an old, and as experience showed,
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