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Sand-Buried Ruins of Khotan : vol.1 |
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a poor head covering for a good Turki Muhammadan, accustomed to
shelter his shaven head under a substantial fur cap when the tem-
perature is so low as it was just then. So my Begs soon com-
promised comfort and appearances by making one of their attendants
wear the cap imposed by their Cathay masters, while they them-
selves kept their heads warm with mighty furs.
About four miles from Bostan Langar we reached the edge of
the cultivated area of the oasis. I was once more among the
hamlets with their canals and poplar avenues, so uniform in ap-
pearance all over Turkestan. After a month's life in the solitude of
the desert the bustle of these homesteads was a welcome sight.
'Yolchi Beg,' my little terrier, also felt this stirring effect of
seeing fellow-creatures once more, and we had no little trouble in
protecting him from the large village dogs which he persisted in
provoking by his self-assertive behaviour. Keriya town presents
no very striking appearance even for the wanderer from the
wilderness, and I was far advanced amidst the low mud-houses of
its outskirts before I realised that I had entered the headquarters
of a territory that extends over some five degrees of longitude.
I was glad to find that the quarters Abdullah Khan had
arranged for me were in a kind of suburban villa, far removed
from the Bazar. The house, which belonged to a relative of his,
a well-known Mullah, proved large and airy. Passing, however,
a series of half-open courts and halls I arrived at a couple of
little rooms dimly lighted by a hole in the roof but more com-
fortable at this season. In one of these I found felts spread and
a fire blazing, and here I took up my abode. Long before my
baggage arrived the Amban's chief interpreter and factotum
presented himself to deliver his master's greetings and presents
of welcome. They were all of a thoroughly practical nature,
including firewood, fodder for my ponies, sheep and fowls for
myself, and on so lavish a scale as to render a worthy return a
little difficult. However, the Amban's kind intentions were amply
testified, and, I felt sure, would not suffer from any inadequacy of
a traveller's counter-gifts. Etiquette permits the feeing of the
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