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| 0388 |
Sand-Buried Ruins of Khotan : vol.1 |
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to please supposed European taste or from the Amban's own
predilection I did not know.
Though my interpreter, Niaz Akhun, the humorous Tungani,
had not arrived from Khotan with the ponies I had left behind
on entering the desert, our conversation went on with some ease.
The Amban's intelligence made up for the imperfect comprehension
his 'Tungchi' showed for my Turki. I had to relate to him at
length how I fared at Dandan-Uiliq, and, of course, took occasion
to tell him how well all I saw and found there agreed with the
account old 'Tang-Seng,' i.e., Hinen-Tsiang, has given us of
Buddhism in these regions. I only wished that I knew how to
talk about Buddhist things through the ordinary Chinese inter-
preter, invariably a Muhammadan with very hazy notions on the
religious systems en vogue among his infidel masters. When I
told the Amban of my wish to visit an ancient site which had been
reported to me north of Niya, the Ni-jang of Hinen-Tsiang, he
readily promised the issue of all needful orders for help. My
thanks and little compliments were always requited by a smile
so cordial and amiable, that the best diplomatic actor might have
envied its expressiveness. When I left, escorted according to
etiquette by the Amban to the side of my pony, I found the whole
of his retinue, down to the scarlet-dressed executioners, drawn up
on the way through the inner gate. The dresses of the men
looked clean and new, and altogether there was an air of neatness
and order about the place which seemed a reflex of the Amban's
personal habits.
I had scarcely left the Yamen when information reached me
that the Amban was starting immediately to return my visit. So
I rode back in haste and just managed to get tea ready in time
and the little inner room of my airy villa tidied up. A cover for
my camp table was difficult to improvise. White is the colour
of mourning in China, and hence no ordinary table-cloth would do.
If I visit Chinese territory again I shall bring a table-cloth of
auspicious red. This time a light rug from my bed had to do
instead. I thought I was playing at European court etiquette
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