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| 0394 |
Sand-Buried Ruins of Khotan : vol.1 |
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local Beg's deputy, and found decent quarters prepared in a Bai's
house close to the entrance of the Bazar. It was the weekly
market day of Niya, and though it was getting dark in the narrow
street overhung by awnings, there was still busy life in front of the
booths that line its sides for about a furlong. There were plenty of
dried fruits, plums, raisins from Khotan, with tea and various
condiments of Chinese origin. Excellent walnuts and fair red
grapes were local produce. People seemed busy buying such little
luxuries on account of the Id festival, marking the close of the
Ramzan fast.
My people had as travellers taken dispensation from the observ-
ance of Ramzan, yet they were anxious to celebrate the day in due
fashion as good Muslims, and hence asked for a halt on January
22nd. I could not well refuse the request, particularly as arrange-
ments had to be made for the labourers and the supplies which were
to be taken to the desert site I was bound for. All Niya was in
holiday attire, and the prayers from the mosque sounded sonorously
into my room. I was busy with making up my mails for India and
home, but used the bright midday hours to take photographs of
local people. There were plenty of fine-looking greybeards to
choose from, and no want of nicely-dressed children. Shy at
first, the little ones were readily enticed before my camera by the
present of a few coppers for sweets. 'Diwanas,' too, or wandering
mendicants, in fantastic rags showing patches in all colours of
the rainbow did not object to giving a sitting in return for my
alms. The rural population here, as at Khotan, shows on the
whole remarkably good features—of course, Caucasian as the
popular term has it. Noticing the thoroughly European appearance
of physiognomies in the great mass of this Turki population, I feel
inclined to wonder at all the efforts that have been made to account
for the same fact in the Western Turks and their kindred in Europe.
Niya is an ancient place. Hinen-Tsiang, travelling towards
Lop-nor and China, duly notices the town of Ni-jang, i.e., Niya,
which "the king of Khotan makes the guard of his eastern
frontier." Niya remained, indeed, the easternmost of the smaller
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