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Sand-Buried Ruins of Khotan : vol.1 |
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that reminded me more of a winter scene in Northern Europe than
anything I had seen for long years.
For over twelve miles we rode through the forest without getting
a glimpse of the river or of a shepherd's hut that might have
indicated its vicinity. At last a little before sunset we reached the
deserted reed-huts of Döbe-Bostan, the second camping-ground.
Here the sandhills of the desert-edge reappeared westwards, while
the river came again within reach about a mile off to the east. The
camels with the baggage did not arrive until 7 p.m. My men kept
up splendid bonfires with the fallen trees close at hand, and thus I
was able to enjoy the delightfully clear night sky without feeling
the cold too acutely. But when my tent was ready at last the
temperature in it was 10° Fahr.
My march on the 26th of January was considerably shorter, only
about thirteen miles, and brought us to the famous Mazar that
was to be our point of departure for the desert. The river, when
we met it again in the morning, appeared as a narrow band of ice
scarcely over 20 feet in width, and yet constantly sending off little
branches. It looked as if the much-reduced stream were trying
where it could bury itself quickest. Yet just here, so near its end,
the fertilising power of its water visibly reasserted itself. The
trees increased in size and the shrubs in height as we came nearer
to the shrine, and the scenery around the latter looked quite pretty
even in the bareness of its winter dress. Scattered at various points
amidst groves of large poplars are huts intended for the shelter of
pilgrims. On the ridge of what looked like a huge sand-dune to
the west there appeared a tangled mass of staffs and flags of all
kinds, marking the resting-place of the martyr prince whose memory
renders the place sacred. At last we were in front of the collection
of mosques, Madrasahs and houses of the hereditary attendants
which make up the 'Mazar.' It looked imposing enough to eyes
that had seen besides the desert only the mud huts of Keriya and
Niya for the last two months. A group of little lakes, formed
apparently by the river between the group of buildings and the hill
which the tomb crowns, greatly added to the picturesqueness of
the scene.
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