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| 0536 |
Sand-Buried Ruins of Khotan : vol.1 |
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to receive appropriate tokens of my satisfaction. Expensive in a
way as this system is, it saves needless circumlocution and géne.
There is no need to disguise one's "tips" in the form of presents, or
to press them into hands that for the sake of appearances pretend
to refuse them. Silver or gold, as the case may be, is accepted
with the same unblushing readiness which seems to have been the
proper style at Indian courts before European notions effected a
change—on the surface. Of course, little souvenirs are not rejected
by one's Turkestan friends. But what marks the value of services
rendered, and is mainly looked for, is hard cash.
My march of the first day was only a short one. I did not wish
to leave Khotan without a farewell visit to the site of the ancient
capital, Yotkan. The road I followed was the same by which I had
returned from that spot on a gloomy and cold November day. But
what a glorious change in the landscape! Riding through the
hamlets clustering in the fertile cantons of Tosalla and Borazan,
there was nothing but deliciously green fields and orchards to rest
one's eyes on. The first crop of lucerne was already standing
high; the avenues of poplars, mulberry-trees, and willows had
decked themselves with the richest foliage, and since the unusual
rain that had fallen during my stay in Nar-Bagh scarcely any dust
had had time to settle on the young leaves. It was a delightful
ride which showed me the oasis under its prettiest aspects. When
more open ground was reached beyond Halalbagh, the whole range
of the great mountains burst into view. Quite clearly I saw the
heights of Ulughat-Dawan and Kauruk-kuz where we fixed our
triangulation stations. Beyond them, to my surprise, the icy
ridges which form the watershed towards the sources of the
Karakash showed themselves in rugged splendour. The inhospit-
able mountains through which I had toiled in November seemed
thus to send me a farewell greeting. Their grand panorama was
the finest setting for the last views I carried away with me of this
strange little world between the desert and the mighty Kuen-luen.
At Yotkan, where I pitched my tent once more in the pretty
orchard below the Yüzbashi's house, I was busy collecting samples
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