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| 0539 |
Sand-Buried Ruins of Khotan : vol.1 |
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far away to the west have peacefully absorbed foreign elements more
numerous and cultured than themselves.
I reached Kara-kash town in the afternoon, after crossing the wide
bed of the river from which it is named, and found it a comparatively
lively and well-built place. The garden of one of Islam Beg's
relations had been hospitably prepared for my reception, and there
I was busy until a late hour with the measurement of many heads
for anthropological purposes and the record of interesting details
about local administration, taxes, &c., for which I had in Islam
Beg a first-hand authority.
April 30th was to be my last day within the territory of Khotan. I
used it for a long excursion to a 'Tati' site called Kara-döbe ("the
Black Mound"), of which Islam Beg had obtained information, away
to the west on the edge of the desert. In order to reach it we had
to traverse in succession the remarkably fertile tracts of Bahram-su,
Kayesh, Makuya, and Kuya, all stretching in long strips of highly
cultivated ground with shady orchards and lanes along their own
separate canals fed by the Kara-kash. No more pleasing picture
could I retain as a souvenir of rural Khotan. The day was hot and
close, and the vision of the mountains had already vanished in the
usual haze. So I was quite glad when, after passing for some
seven miles over a scrub-covered sandy plain and then through low
dunes, Kara-döbe was reached. I found the ground for about a
square mile covered with ancient pottery, and in the midst of this
débris a small mound of broken masonry. The brick work was
undoubtedly old, and might well have belonged once to the base of
a Stupa. Elsewhere broken pieces of hard white stucco with
relievo ornament possibly represent the last remains of some long-
decayed shrine. Heavy dunes of coarse sand, very trying to our
ponies, had to be crossed for some four miles before we struck the
western bank of a broad marshy Nullah in which the stream of
Yawa expands among reed-covered lagoons. And when by
nightfall I arrived at my camp pitched near the village of Zawa, I
might well feel as if, by these changes of rich village land, sandy
jungle, high dunes and marsh, Vaisravana, the divine genius loci of
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