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| 0094 |
Ruins of Desert Cathay : vol.1 |
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CHAPTER IV
IN CHITRAL
In spite of the strongly pressed offers of further hospitality,
I set out in the forenoon of May 5th from Drosh for the
double march to the Chitral capital. I was eager to meet
there Captain E. Knollys, the Assistant Political Agent,
and to commence my antiquarian and anthropological
enquiries. It was a long day's ride, some twenty-six miles
by the road, and lengthened still further by the visit I paid
to an inscribed rock on the left river-bank beyond Gairat.
The sun shone from a specklessly clear sky all day, and its
power was strong; for Kala Drosh lies only 4300 feet
above the sea and Chitral but 600 feet higher. But in
spite of the heat I could not have wished for a more
enjoyable introduction to ground and people in Chitral
proper.
At Kala Drosh the presence of a relatively large
garrison with its Commissariat lines, Bazar, etc., imparts
a certain Indian air to what was before 1895 only a cluster
of hamlets scattered over a broad alluvial plateau. In
the fine grove of Chinars just below the fort I had
even passed the whitewashed structure of the 'Victoria
Reading Room,' a curious proof of the presence in strength
of those worthy Babus whom the non-combatant branches
of an Indian force are bound to drag with them to the
remotest outposts. But once beyond the rifle ranges
constructed in the little plain where the Shishikuf Valley
with mighty snow-clad peaks in the background joins in
from the north-east, I had true Chitral to myself. Bare
and bleak the rocky spurs rose on either side, with broad
talus shoots along their faces where falling stones are a
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821
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