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| 0384 |
Ruins of Desert Cathay : vol.2 |
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Muhammadans or Tungans about ; and in these parts none
of these quondam rebels had been allowed to survive or to
effect a fresh footing.
Yet T'a-shih had not escaped their fury during the times
of the last great rebellion, as was shown by the quaint, only
half-restored temple in which I found airy quarters outside
the walled central village. Scarcely twelve years had passed
since, as Lin, my warrior friend of Tun-huang, related, a
large body of Tungan rebels, retreating from Hsi-ning,
threatened T'a-shih with fresh destruction. The outer
enclosure of the temple still displayed the loopholes and
other defences then hastily improvised by the local troops
sent up from Tun-huang to intercept them. We had struck
now, in fact, the main route which connects An-hsi and the
great road from northern Turkestan and Mongolia with
Tibet and the Koko-nor region across the high plateaus of
Tsaidam.
I knew that the Dalai-Lama in 1904, on his flight from
Lhassa to Urga, had passed by this route, and that I might
any day while along it meet pious Mongols or Buriats
returning from their Tibetan pilgrimage. Yet with all
these geographical facts before me, I never suspected that
T'a-shih on the very night of my stay had given shelter
also to the late Lieutenant Brooke, the plucky young
English traveller, who some eighteen months later was to
fall a victim of exploring zeal among the treacherous Lolos.
Starting from the Hsi-ning side he had vainly attempted to
make his way through to Lhassa, and, foiled by Tibetan
obstruction, was forced to retreat by the very route which I
was now about to survey up to the watershed of the Tun-
huang river sources. I heard first towards the end of July
of his passage at Su-chou, but did not learn until nearly four
years later, when Mr. Fergusson published an account from
his papers, that without knowing of each other's presence
we had passed in such close proximity.
The fresh transport promised completely failed us at
T'a-shih. However, on hearing that the route was just
practicable for carts over a march which would take us to
the cave-temples of Wang-fo-hsia, I managed, with much
difficulty, to induce the men from Ch'iao-tzŭ to take us up
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813
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