Ruins of Desert Cathay : vol.2 / 422 ページ（カラー画像）

0422	Ruins of Desert Cathay : vol.2
中国砂漠地帯の遺跡 : vol.2

0422

Ruins of Desert Cathay : vol.2

中国砂漠地帯の遺跡 : vol.2

repast had washing basins produced, with hot water, towels,
and soap all complete! He had evidently made it his
business to study the needs of the guests whom the great
road made pass through his gates. The time passed
quickly in talk about the history of these Marches and the
vicissitudes to which the last great Tungan rebellion had
reduced their people. Shuang Ta-jên had first come here
with the forces which Liu Chin-t'ang led to the reconquest
of Turkestan, and vividly he described the great efforts it
had cost to provide for their passage through the desolate
desert region between Chia-yü-kuan and Hami. When
after an hour or so I walked back with Chiang to camp in
the light of the young moon, I felt that I could not have
found a more cheering welcome at the Western Gate of
the Middle Kingdom.

My halt on July 20th was to be utilized for a close
examination of the old walls. The start was delayed by a
very early visit of Shuang Ta-jên, who came himself to
bring the requested local guide. The sun had already
risen high before I was free to ascend the great tower built
over the west Gate, whence a distant view could be gained.
From the height of the second story it was easy to follow
the line of the much-decayed rampart and adjoining clay
towers which stretched away across the vast plain east-
wards. Most of the ground it traverses was now seen to
be a bare stony Sai, with little patches of cultivation forming
a thin chain. Soon I rode off north to survey the actual
Chia-yü-kuan defences. That the massive clay wall which
now closes the valley from south to north is built on low
ground within a furlong or two of the high gravel ridge
forming the natural barrier, seemed strange, until I realized
to what extent the level of this ridge is broken by steep
ravines. Overlooked though the wall is from the plateau
crest, it was safe from being commanded in the days of
arrows or matchlocks, and there was the supreme advantage
of an ample supply of water from springs close at hand.

But the advantage of holding the ridge, too, had not
been neglected by those who drew the line of the present
wall; for the detached towers of clay surrounded by trenches
and earth-walls, of which three rise between the gate strong-

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