National Institute of Informatics - Digital Silk Road Project
Digital Archive of Toyo Bunko Rare Books

or which are attempted to be crossed at a season when it is doubtful whether they
are not already closed.¹

When making a glacier expedition, or crossing a pass rarely frequented, where
neither the traveller, nor any of his people are well acquainted with the road, it
is preferable to make short stages only. The guides, however, in order to enhance
their importance, will scarcely ever fail to say that they know all about the road,
though this will but too often turn out not to be the case. Every requisite supply
should be provided in abundance for such expeditions, as the men will then be
cheerful, and not despair at the very first obstacle which may unexpectedly present
itself. We do not remember any single expedition in very great heights — heights
which really cannot be compared with those in the Alps — where we did not invari-
ably meet with difficulties, which, however, with few exceptions, we were always able
to surmount.

If it is stated in the route-book that fuel or provisions should be laid in for
several stages, the traveller should trust to this statement more than to that of the
natives, who, on such occasions, will often maintain that it is needless to carry pro-
visions along this route, as they will most likely fall in with a kafila or caravan.
This may be quite true; but the question is, whether the caravan has supplies to
spare; and, at the best, one has to depend upon the good will of the caravan people,
and to pay very dearly for everything required; while it is also quite as likely that
one may be disappointed in getting anything at all. In this latter case it would be
necessary to retrace one's steps in order to procure supplies at the place left some
hours, or, possibly, some days before.

After the traveller has laid in provisions for himself, particular care must be
taken that the servants and kúlis also carry the proper amount required for them-
selves. The tíndal, or pátvári (the headman of the kúlis), should be made responsible
for this; natives, even those of Tíbet, not being disposed to allow a European to in-
spect and examine their victuals.

In some parts of the Himálaya, especially in Kámáon and Gárhvál, where a
great many of the peaks, rivers, and places are intimately connected with Indian
mythology, the people are much addicted to superstitious ceremonies, upon the strict