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0157 Peking to Lhasa : vol.1
Peking to Lhasa : vol.1 / Page 157 (Grayscale High Resolution Image)

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doi: 10.20676/00000296
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THE START FOR TIBET   119

by an easy descent reached Ma-la-yi-kou, a big

open valley or small plain with a stream and fair

pasturage. At the start a bitter north-east wind

had been blowing, but when the sun came out in

the early afternoon it was quite hot.

The Yellow River plain was reached the next day after crossing the West Ma-la-yi Pass, 14,490

feet. The Huang Ho, or Yellow River, so mighty

and so dangerous in its lower course, was here a small river, 30 yards wide and from 2 to 21

feet deep, flowing over a gravelly bed. No bridge

was here necessary, and Pereira records with

justifiable pride that not many other Europeans

could say they had forded the Yellow River.

He also records that this is perhaps the only big

river in China that keeps its name throughout its

course. Other big rivers change their names, and

small rivers generally have different names at

each village on their banks. Possibly the Han

River might also keep its name, but Pereira had

not seen so much of it as he had of the Huang Ho.

Of course the Tibetans have a different name for

it. They call it Ma Chu, mother of rivers. Pereira made it 2861 miles from Tangar.

On the Yellow River the uninhabited region

stretching back to Ta-ho-pa is left behind and the

country is now inhabited by nomadic Tibetans,

and Pereira saw several camps of Yü-rung-wa

Tibetans with their flocks of sheep and yaks.

Leaving the plain he ascended a bare ridge and

encamped by the Tsa-shung-chu, a river flowing

from a beautiful lake 3 miles long and 3 miles

wide and of a deep blue colour. The pas-

turage was poor but there were three Tibetan