slightly better. It is quite impossible to describe his smiles and inimitable expression, as he told me this had news, as, of course, he considered it, but I must confess that he acted wonderfully. However, I was to be allowed to see the temples next day with a lama specially appointed for that duty. I was also to be provided with a guard for my journey, but only as far as our first night's quarters — quite an unnecessary precaution, as the dangerous part of the road would be covered during the later days. The amiable prelate lived in a simple but neatly arranged room with paintings on the walls and on the low ceiling. He had a collection of magnificent large images and silver boxes of beautifully chased work, in which he kept prayers, images etc., on a shelf on the wall. He had two servants, bronzed by the sun, who had one shoulder naked, while the sleeves of their fur coats swept the ground, and would really have been a fine subject for an artist.
In the evening two lamas brought me a big leather bag of copper coins. They seemed to be greatly surprised, when I said that I did not accept money, but would keep the silk cloth that accompanied the gift as a memento. As their explanations that the money was the same as an invitation to dinner, did not avail, they went away, but returned after a long consultation with quantities of meat which, naturally, I was unable to refuse. -Later I had a visit from a Mongolian lama from the neighbourhood of Urga. He knew a few words of Russian and was really acting as interpreter for a Tangut colleague who had travelled to Siberia, the Urals and Russia as far as Moscow. The latter had fine, aristocratic features. I saw many fine heads with expressive faces to-day inside the monastery.
As agreed, a lama was sent to-day to accompany me on my visit to the temples which, March 27th. as the Timpan said, His Holiness had given orders should be opened for me. We began Labrang by going a short distance down the river to the bridge in order to take some photographs. monastery.
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