thrown two of his brothers over a precipice, and he now feared that similar treachery might be played upon him, and that the Gurkhas might despatch him with a bullet. Under these excessive precautions the practice proceeded, and volleys were. fired at objects far across the valley, the people being duly impressed both by the excellence of the shooting and by the sturdy character of the Gurkhas.
I had several interviews with Safder Ali, but on one occasion: he was so rude that I had afterwards to tell the Wazir that I could neither receive visits from him nor pay visits to him while he spoke as he did. He caused me incessant annoyance, too, by sending down messengers to ask for various things in my possession. I had given him a handsome present, but he would send and ask me for my tent, my mule-trunks, and even some soap for his wives. Among my presents to the Wazir had been a few tablets of soap wrapped up in silver " paper ; these had excited the admiration of the ladies of the " king's " household,. and they wanted some for themselves. All these requests I refused on principle, for if one thing had been given, more would be demanded, and every article of my kit would be taken from me. Of this Captain Grombtchevsky had good-naturedly informed me, and he had warned me to be firm from the first.
Balti coolies, to carry my baggage down to Gilgit, having arrived, I left Gulmit on November 23. On the morning of my departure, Safder Ali came down on foot to my tent and apologized for any annoyance he had given me, saying his only intention was to give me a suitable reception, and he wished a subsidy from Government ! Safder Ali struck me as being a weak character, and the opinion I recorded of him at the time was that he was too childishly obstinate and too deficient in shrewdness and far-sightedness to appreciate the advantages of keeping on good terms with the British. I am the last European who has seen him ; two years later he was forced to flee from his country, and he is now an exile in Chinese territory,
IIIF Color HighRes
