Among the Celestials : vol.1 / Page 293 (Color Image)

0293	Among the Celestials : vol.1

CHAP. Ix.] THE BALTIS. 247

There is little that is strong or masculine

about the Balti to cause one to admire him,

but yet one likes him for his very patience

and the ease with which he can be pleased.

And among these Baltis I have employed,

have been some for whom I have borne respect

for their intense devotion to what they believed

to be their duty. I now was on the eve of

parting with those five who brought me over

the Mustagh Pass, and for Wali, their head-

man, I entertain a regard such as I do for few

other men.

I picture him now as he was first brought

before me at the inn at Yarkand—a short,

thick-set man, with an iron-grey beard, a

prominent, rather hooked nose, and an ex-

pression of determination and proud indiffer-

ence to danger about his chin and underlip.

Asked if he were willing to conduct me over

the Mustagh Pass, he replied that he did not

want to go, but if he were really required

he would undertake to guide me ; the only

condition he would make would be that I

should not look at a map ! He had heard

Englishmen were inclined to guide themselves

and trust the map rather than the man with

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