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0531 Overland to India : vol.2
Overland to India : vol.2 / Page 531 (Color Image)

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doi: 10.20676/00000217
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LVII

ON THE AFGHAN FRONTIER   311

ably (3934 feet), and with 71.8° at five o'clock the air is pleasant.

We are in Baluchistan, in a country ruled by Englishmen. We are on the sharp and still narrow wedge which points north-westwards, and have Afghanistan close on our left, and on our right Persia. I have been travelling across this country for four months and a half. It seems to have shrivelled up now that it is behind me, and yet how many weary days' march I have experienced in its deserts. I saw it again at the eleventh hour ; it is now a kingdom divided against itself and threatening to fall to pieces. Only the rivalry of its powerful neighbours, England and Russia, keeps it still on its feet.

Now the wind is against us, now it is fresh and pleasant, and we have the declining sun at our backs. An English officer comes cantering up and introduces himself as Lieutenant White. He escorts me to the station-house of Robat (3245 feet), where Captain Dunscombe gives me a kind reception. He brings me letters and cheroots from Macpherson, shows me into a fine officer's tent, where I install myself for the night and take an invigorating bath, and then invites me to a capital dinner in the bungalow of Robat.

Next morning the staff of servants and the escort which had accompanied me from Nasretabad were sent home, and a new troop was mustered. Mr. Hughes, at the Consulate, had arranged matters admirably, and twelve fresh dromedaries waited for their loads and riders. I rode a fine, very tall jambas, proud, grand, and solemn, but somewhat peevish and vicious. He had a peg in his nose with a cord attached, and he could be steered by throwing the cord to the right or left of his head. The saddle was quite a large stage with two hollows, one before and the other behind the hump. Usually a jambas carries two riders, but I refused company, as I wanted a free view, and to use the front saddle hollow for my field-glass, photographic camera, and other small articles. One has a firm and comfortable seat on this singular saddle, which is very deep and provided with a back. The stirrups also give support, which is often necessary, especially when the dromedary starts and