国立情報学研究所 - ディジタル・シルクロード・プロジェクト
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Peking to Lhasa : vol.1 | |
北京からラサへ : vol.1 |
10 PEKING TO LHASA
Pereira was still annoyed at the vexatious in-
quisitiveness of Chinese crowds. At meals or a
halt in a village the crowds would close in to watch
him eating and pester him with inquiries. On
arriving at an inn the traveller alights in a filthy
courtyard which has never been swept out. He
then proceeds to his chamber, on the north side of
which is the kang or raised platform, beneath
which runs a flue which is heated by burning long
millet stalks. Lying on the kang the traveller is
roasted when the millet stalks are burning and
frozen when the fire dies out. The walls are of
mud, with the accumulated dirt of ages. The
wooden door never fits the doorway, so admits
plenty of fresh air. The windows are of paper.
Such inns Pereira found a poor refuge after a
long day's journey. In the winter time the
traveller is frozen, but free of insects. In summer
time the walls are the refuge of countless bugs,
who issue forth at night in legions to attack their
unfortunate victim. And if they cannot reach
him on his bed they climb on to the ceiling and drop
on him from above. If he sleeps on the kang
without a bed he becomes a victim to lice. And on
the cart, too, he must be careful not to get near the
wadded clothes of the carters for fear of these pests.
At Chengting Fu, which has a population of
about 90,000, he found a large French Lazarist
Mission with schools for 150 boys, orphanages
where boys are taught various trades, and a
convent with sixteen Sisters of Charity who
usually look after about a thousand orphans and
destitute women, but who during the famine had
to succour twice that number.
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