THE VALE OF KASHMIR 27
with the natives, who went about with "gungris " under their long, dirty, white cotton gowns. The " gungri " resembles
a large flower-pot made inside a wicker basket, with a protective wicker handle, like the arches of a half dome. When filled with live coals it serves to warm the hands — or, oftener, the whole body — by being put under the loose outer robe of either man or woman and held over the stomach, whether the people are walking or sitting. It is essentially a lazy man's device; for no one can hold it and work, and it reflects the habits of the Kashmiri, especially of the farmer, who in the snow and mud of winter has nothing to do.
The abundance of the water supply of Kashmir and the smoothness and softness of the fine soil of the plain have led to the formation of an intricate network of deep, slow-moving waterways, partly natural and partly artificial, difficult to ford but easy to navigate, and often overflowing. Hence, as Stein points out, the roads are very bad ; and as outside traffic is largely shut out by the mountains, beasts of burden are rare, wheeled vehicles are practically confined to the single new thoroughfare down the Jhelum, and traffic is carried on in boats, the loads being usually borne for short distances on men's backs. Almost every village is said to have its landing-place, either close at hand or a mile or two away; and in Srinagar the crowded river and the larger canals are the main thoroughfares.
Another effect of the abundant water and fine soil, together with the hot summer sun, is great fertility. Therefore food is plentiful and cheap. Rice is naturally the chief crop; and though other grains grow well, they are of second-
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