say that he was surprisingly good-tempered in view of the indignities to which he had been subjected by the previous travelers, two unrepresentative Englishmen, whose fondness for whipping and browbeating Asiatics may be most charitably attributed to indigestion. Repeated official presents, chiefly of sheep and grain, and formal receptions upon entering and leaving the towns were sometimes embarrassing, especially when we had nothing suitable to offer in return. Nevertheless, the good-will of the officials and their ready help in seeing that we were furnished with means of transportation, supplies, lodgings, and guides, even in the most remote regions, were highly welcome. They never delayed us a day, or interfered with our work for an hour; their coöperation saved much time, and enabled us to accomplish much more than would otherwise have been possible. Chinese officials are often and perhaps justly the cause of complaint, but in many cases the traveler has only himself to blame for his difficulties. I wish to record here my lasting gratitude to the officials of Chinese Turkestan, from Governor-General Oo to merry Emin, the interpreter of Sanju.
A few hours after receiving the message from the " amban " of Kiliyan, we met the Chanto "Beg," or " Lord " of Sanju, and the Dungan, or Mohammedan Chinese interpreter of the "amban" of Guma, the chief town of the Sanju district. With them came eight or ten attendants, mostly chief men of the village, who had ridden out seven miles that morning to meet us. The slender, irascible, bearded Beg in his dark blue skull-cap, bright blue robe, black girdle, and loose red trousers, contrasted strongly with the stout, good-
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