disturb my baggage, but down the descent from Sigana he must have been exceptionally reckless, and the sevari (mounted man) upbraided the arabachi (driver) in strong words. The latter replied that it was not his business and instantly received a buffet, but protected himself with his whip. The soldier then lost his temper and struck the driver on the head with the muzzle of his rifle, so that blood streamed over his face and clothes from a nasty wound. Then the driver, beside himself with rage, drew his dagger and made ready to spring, and the soldier had just brought his rifle to his shoulder when we came up and wondered what the matter was. With the help of my driver and soldier I succeeded in separating the fighting cocks before they had taken each other's life. The soldier was ordered to take himself off, and I bound up the arabachi with two pocket-handkerchiefs and a towel, after having washed his head and wound at the nearest spring. He was an invalid for the rest of the day.
Through the village Baade, where the last patch of snow lay, we came to the village Sigana, where I established myself in the open balcony of the rest-house, two stairs above the turmoil of the street and a caravan of fine camels which occupied a serai close by. A little later I had the company of a young Turkish cavalry officer, who was returning from an expedition to Mush (south of Erzerum and west of the Van lake), where he had successfully encountered Armenian anarchists, according to his account. They were a notorious band of brigands which had to be exterminated, and with twelve Kurdish cavalry soldiers he had shot down twenty badly armed Armenians. Now he was on the way to Stambul to give in his report of the action.
The large room of the inn was full of travellers, mostly Turks in fez or turban, smoking, drinking tea, and chattering. The caravans always set out at midnight and travel on during the morning. After the camels have been fed or sent off to graze, the men sleep or doze for the rest of the day so as not to feel hunger. But when the sun sets and supper-time is near they wake up, and after the regular meal drink tea and smoke till it is time to set out. Imme-
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