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0208 Overland to India : vol.1
Overland to India : vol.1 / Page 208 (Color Image)

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doi: 10.20676/00000217
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138   OVERLAND TO INDIA

CHAP.

in Teheran. The good Tatars, however, always waited upon me and served me to the best of their ability ; and as I could talk to them in their own language, which I had learned many years before in Baku, I had no difficulty in gaining their confidence.

After a breakfast which, on the whole, was a repetition of the supper, we continue next morning our endlessly long journey to Teheran. At the very first hill the horses jib and back, and I spring out in a hurry lest I should roll with the carriage over the edge. But the coachman gets command over them, and a little later we pass in the next valley over a bridge which is so narrow that the four horses, harnessed abreast, can only just squeeze through. They close in together as tight as possible, and the two outside have a narrow escape of falling over, for there is no rail to the bridge. But here, too, we come off all right, and then cross three terribly deep dales. The mountains to the north are covered with snow to the foot, and the rising sun throws a fiery red glow over the southern mountains, which, however, soon pales and vanishes as dense clouds collect over the sky.

At the village Suma we met two horsemen from

Mianeh, bringing a telegram from Nizam-ul-Saltaneh, in which he informed me that he had given orders for a new change of escort at Mianeh. However, the soldiers had taken the matter into their own hands and had turned back.

The two horsemen were able to give me the welcome news that the pass Kaplan-kuh, which lay in front of us, was not snowed up. The heavy snowfall which occurred farther north, where the mountains were clad in white, had, therefore, not extended so far.

The road in itself is good but never level ; it either goes up or down. On a rise above the village sits a solitary old beggar-man and calls out, "Allah emr versun" (" God prolong your life "), and two exceedingly ragged women come running up to the carriage, each holding out her hand for alms.

Beyond the villages Kara-chö and Bolanlik we drive over the elevations which stand on the left bank of the