22 TO ASTOR AND GILGIT [CHAP. II.
flowering shrubs only a kind of wild rose seems to thrive on-the barren soil, and being just in full bloom caught the eye by its purple patches. A few green fields perched on the top of small alluvial fans were all the cultivation visible on the fifteen miles' march to Dashkin village, the first stage from Astor.
As I had heard of the arrival at the next stage, Duyan, of Captain J. Manners Smith, whom I was anxious to meet, I decided to push on. The slow rate of progress made by the baggage animals confirmed the objections which my pony-men had raised. But otherwise this extra march of twelve miles proved a pleasant surprise. The road, rising gradually to about 5,000 feet above the tossing river, took me through a charming forest of pines, which in the shadows of the setting sun looked its best. This forest evidently owes its growth to its sheltered position on the north-east flank of a great ridge, which on its top was still covered with snow. It was a pleasure to behold once more green moss and ferns along the little streams which rush down through the forest. But when this was left behind at the turning of a cross-spur there spread a grander view before me.
Through the gap between the mountains enclosing the Astor Valley there appeared the broad stream of the Indus and beyond it range after range towards the north. Thin clouds hung over the more distant ranges, yet I thought I could recognise rising above the fleecy mist the icy mass of Mount Rakiposhi. Father Indus was greeted by me like an old friend. I had seen the mighty river at more than one notable point of its course, where it breaks through the rocky gorges of Baltistan, where it bursts forth into the Yusufzai plain, and in its swift rush through the defiles below Attock. But -nowhere had it impressed me more than when I now suddenly caught sight of it amidst these towering mountain walls. The shadows of evening fell quickly in its deep-cut valley and the glittering vision of the river had vanished when, somewhat tired, I reached the end of my double march.
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