make arrangements (bandarbast karna), and the result is rather a lessening of his own work than a satisfactory distribution of the packages. My proceedings now were contrary to custom, and Khalik, evidently resenting the innovation, became quite sulky. For the labour under-
gone by myself in this matter I was abundantly repaid during the journey. The work was properly done once for all, instead of having to be repeated in an unsatisfactory manner before every march, and the risks of loads slipping off was reduced to a minimum. Our thirty-three baggage animals on leaving Bandipur carried a total weight of nearly two and one-third tons, mostly of flour, rice, and corn, so that we expected to be nearly independent of local supplies till we reached Turkestan. After a busy morning I saw the last of the ponies loaded and on its way by half-past one ; then I went to Major Yeilding's bungalow, a couple of miles from the village, and once more enjoyed the cheerful company of this hospitable family who had freely helped me in the all important matter of transport. Climbing a zigzag road from which excellent views of the picturesque valley beneath and the adjacent pine-clad mountains were obtained, I reached the small rest-house of Tragbal about eight o'clock in the evening, and found Cobbold waiting for my arrival. The cool, bracing air provided a delightful change from the hot, moist climate of Srinagar, while the . scenery, enlivened by the wild flowers scattered about the Tragbal Pass, and by clear rivers flowing in the distance, made us more thoroughly enjoy this pleasant country.
It was not long before complaints were made to me against Khalik, the caravan bashi, who was alleged to have defrauded his namesake, Cobbold's factotum, of about forty rupees. Though Khalik had been recommended to me as an excellent man for supervising others, my own experience of him had led me to a different opinion, and
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