passes are practicable. To supply the place of some useless ponies, we obtained at Gilgit ten fine mules and two ponies on a six months' agreement with Mohammed Amin, a wiry old Pathan, who proved as great an acquisition as his three fellow-countrymen, who did nearly all the heavy work of this section of the caravan. From Gilgit to Baltit, the capital of Hunza, and a picturesque village, we had the company of Captain MacMahon, and of Captain Roberts, the Agency Surgeon, who, having been present at the capture of Nilt, took us round the place and pointed out the objects of special interest.
At Baltit the Astor pony men who, a few weeks before, had clamoured for employment during the winter months, now became openly mutinous, and refused to proceed further on any conditions. The matter was reported to the Political Agent, and under the pressure which he could bring to bear the men yielded, but sulked and lied freely concerning me.
We were tempted to delay a few days, for the sake of Captain MacMahon's company as far as the Kilik Pass, whither he was going on a tour of inspection, but the season was now well advanced, and we deemed it advisable to set out at once so as to reach the Taghdumbash Pamir before the passes were encumbered with snow. A short distance beyond Baltit the track became narrower, and often so steep and stony as to be impracticable for laden ponies, so that it was necessary for a time to transfer all the baggage to the coolies. The journey to the Pamirs, however, was accomplished without any more serious mishap than the death of one pony, and the fall of another laden with flour, into a deep water hole with a soft, muddy bottom with which the driver also, in consideration of his neglect, was required to make acquaintance. The Astoris continued to be troublesome, and it was with great joy that we beheld the approach of several Kirghiz with
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