324 IN TIBET AND CHINESE TURKESTAN.
rejoiced that they were going home, and Niaz Akun offered to accept his discharge without payment for the return journey, an arrangement which, being equitable from the point of view of either party, was agreed to.
We now advanced, little cumbered with luggage, as fast as we could travel, towards Ladak, and I was able to guide the caravan to the Lanak La without once looking at the map. The march was a most dreary one for me, for I was feverish and in bad health, with no purpose save to reach my journey's end. At the conclusion of the daily march there was nothing for me to do but to help in pitching the tent, which was rarely used, to write a few lines in my journal, and to make an attempt to eat some dinner. Milk I had none, and my diet, such as it was, consisted of soup, rice, tea, and occasionally a little meat. About eight o'clock I retired for the night, usually stretching myself out in the open air. Before reaching the Lanak La I considered the probability of meeting some sportsmen in Chang Chenmo, and, soon after crossing the pass on July 10th, my spirits rose at the sight of a small caravan of yaks approaching. The Ladakis assured me that the caravan must be that of some European, for only sahibs visited such a desert place as Chang Chenmo, and when, after unloading my donkeys, I sent to ascertain whether any sahib was near, I was delighted with an affirmative reply. The traveller proved to be Major Graham, R.H.A., who had been quartered at Lucknow at the same time with myself several years before. It was with great pleasure that I accepted his invitation to cross the valley and share his hospitality. The next European I met was also a personal friend, Captain Lachlan, R.A., with whom I marched two days. After I had crossed the Chang La my eyes were refreshed with the rich green of the crops in the Sakti valley, for a long sojourn among barren hills and sandy deserts
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