国立情報学研究所 - ディジタル・シルクロード・プロジェクト
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Overland to India : vol.2 | |
インドへの陸路 : vol.2 |
25
CARAVAN LIFE
XXXVI
thing was grey and gloomy. Here, onthe other hand,
the spectator was on an elevated spot with the immense depression below him, and here the sky was pure and blue,
and the ground was of light, delicate, rosy tints. The
whole length of Kuh-i-shuturi or " Camel Hill " beyond Tebbes shone with a faint purple shade at sunset, and
even the snowfield on its crest was pink and formed a fine
light outline against the blue sky behind. But the sun sank, the shadows from the western heights passed quickly over the desert and crept up the precipices of the
Camel Hill, the purple hues grew dull and changed into a neutral grey, the outline of the range became indistinct, and the details of its relief, even before scarcely perceptible, vanished altogether, and rosy shades hovered on a thin veil of clouds high above the snow—a reflexion of the red light of evening.
The hurrying shades of night have stretched their dark curtain over the earth. Then is heard a wonderfully
bewitching music from the inner court of the caravanserai,
also surrounded by recesses with pointed arches. Two caravans are making ready for the night's march. The
camels are brought forward in long rows to receive their
loads. All the bells ring and their beats meet together in a single sonorous peal, strengthened by the echo from
the solid stone walls and vaulted roofs, and the whole
serai seems to be converted into sounding bronze and a
vibrating resonator. How charming is the scene, how
soothing and lulling the music, accompanied by the shouts
of the men to the camels, and their talk as they hoist the loads on to the bearers ! There is something grand and
imposing in caravan life in Persia, the long wanderings through desert tracts, the longed-for rest at rabats. At Rabat - gur we felt that we were at a great focus of
caravan life. Twenty years ago I had witnessed many such scenes on the royal road from Teheran through
Ispahan and Shiraz to Bushir, and on the road through Khorasan, and I had even been a member of a large Arabian caravan from Bagdad, poor as a student and without a servant ; now I travelled as a gentleman, had my own caravan, and could go whither I chose.
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