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0553 Overland to India : vol.2
インドへの陸路 : vol.2
Overland to India : vol.2 / 553 ページ(カラー画像)

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doi: 10.20676/00000217
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IN AFGHAN TERRITORY   321

LVIII

are mats, curtains, a lamp, a shaded candlestick, and, for winter, a fire-place. Nor are enamelled services and the necessary cooking-vessels wanting. But best of all is the bathroom with washing utensils and a bath, and the first thing I do when I arrive in the evening and when I get up in the morning is to take a good bath, for only there can I enjoy the pleasant feeling of coolness.

They are, in short, ideal, these station-houses. In them the air is much cooler than in a tent, and in winter they afford shelter from the biting storms. The only complaint I can make of them is that the door of the bathroom is an inch too low, so that I strike my head every time I go to take a bath, naturally forgetting to bend my back before I have banged my forehead against the lintel. Scorpions and tarantulas must be looked out for before installing oneself in a bungalow. At this time of year the windows and doors must be kept shut during the night, or one is eaten up by gnats, and therefore one cannot enjoy the cool breeze.

The salt in the spring water of Kirtaka is not noticeable when the water is drunk icy cold, but now that it is tepid one cannot escape the nauseous, bitter aftertaste. The station overseer said that strangers are often made ill by drinking from the spring in summer, but that the water had no deleterious effect now. Summer, with its great scorching heat, would begin in a month or more, and is reckoned to last for four. The Baluchis can drink the water with impunity at any time. At most stations there is distilling apparatus.

The great slough, which extends to the north at the foot of the detritus fan, is called Navord, and is almost barren. After heavy rain masses of silt are carried into it. After it has dried, and when the wind of 120 days' rages, the ground is cut up again. Water and wind contend for the mastery, and the solid matter is a ball in their hands.

At the sensible suggestion of the caravan men a change was made in the order of march, the caravan travelling by night. With me were carried only my bed and things I might want on the way.

Our road runs for an endless distance straight to the east-south-east on April 27, and as we ride towards the sun,