with a population that apparently consists of only two men and some scarecrows in the fields. All the erosion furrows are directed to the south-west ; in one of them stands a freshly digged pit full of sweet water, and at the foot of a red mound is Hauz-i-do-dehené (4423 feet), a covered tank, a subterranean water kiosk, filled with splendid rain-water. It is built on the right bank of a main furrow, but is filled from a side dell. A pair of embankments and a canal guide the water right into the reservoir, where it must remain far into spring. The contents of our meshks, the salt water from Ser-i-cha, are quickly thrown away, and four skins are filled with the fresh rain-water. Pure it can hardly be, standing as it does available to all wayfarers. No one passes without stopping to drink, wash, and dabble in the shade. But we do not trouble ourselves, for we have no choice, and are glad to be rid of the nauseous brackish water.
At the well Cha-kuru (4626 feet) we made preparations for another night. When the men's tent was unrolled on the ground a large yellow scorpion crept out of its folds. He had had a ride from Ser-i-cha, and did not like it, but it was all one when his head and poison-bladder had been crushed under stones.
The dog Nevengk has torn soles like my Swedish boots. He is so tender-footed that he can hardly follow the caravan in the morning, and it is some time before he can get along, limping slowly and carefully without running about. As for the boots, they have been fridged and spoiled by the salt and wet in the Kevir. It is therefore not the shoemaker's fault but my own that the soles are worn through.
Our course on March 27 takes us to the south-east, and we have to cross at right angles all the furrows, which here run south-west. Before us are seen the hills Kuh-i-bala, Kuh-i-cheleketau, and Shah-kuh, the first a conspicuous cone, the last at a considerable distance, falling steeply to the north-east and gently to the south-west, and looking like a spike in the outline of the horizon. It is the highest of all that are in sight, and has a large quantity of snow on its northern flank. Kuh-i-Shah disappears behind us, and
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