India and Tibet : vol.1 / Page 226 (Color Image)

0226	India and Tibet : vol.1

CHAPTER XIII

GYANTSE

GYANTSE, which had been our goal for so many months,

and with which we were to be but too well acquainted

before we had finished, has two principal features—the

jong and the monastery, called Palkhor Choide. The

,Jong is a really imposing structure built of strong, solid

masonry, and rising in tiers of walls up a rocky eminence

springing abruptly out of the plain to a height of 400 or

500 feet. It has a most commanding and dominant look.

And the monastery immediately adjoining it at a part of

the base of the hill is also impressive from the height and

solidity of the walls with which it is surrounded, and by

the massiveness of the buildings within the walls.*

The town itself was not of much importance, nor so

promising as a trading-mart as I had hoped. It lay at

the foot of the jong, and the bazaar did not possess shops

of any size. The real population, indeed, seemed to be

scattered in the numerous hamlets dotted all over the

valley, through which ran a considerable river.

The demeanour of the inhabitants was respectful.

They brought in supplies for sale, and in a few days a

regular bazaar was established by the Tibetans immediately

outside our camp, the bartering being carried on, as usual,

mostly by women. The people said they had not the

slightest wish to fight us, and only desired to escape

being commandeered by the Lhasa authorities. The

valley proved to be very fertile, with cultivation all down

it, and supplies were plentiful.

* An excellent description of the jong and monastery will be found in Chapter VII. of Landon's Lhasa."

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