India and Tibet : vol.1 / Page 197 (Color Image)

0197	India and Tibet : vol.1

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CROSSING THE TANG-LA 161

tuality ; but as darkness set in and the cold increased in

intensity, we felt we should be pretty helpless in an open

camp, and there were some thoughts of retiring again across

the pass, for the military risks were very great. But, on

the whole, we thought it would be better to face it now

we were there ; and as, next morning, we examined the

hamlet of 'Puna, and found it could be turned into a good

defensible post, and had a well within the walls, we

decided that the Mission should remain there, with an

escort of four companies of the 23rd Pioneers, Lieutenant

Hadow's Maxim-gun detachment, and a 7-pounder-

the whole under Colonel Hogge while General Mac-

donald, with the flying column, returned to Chumbi to

complete his arrangements.

The immediate surroundings in which we now found

ourselves were miserable in the extreme. Tuna was nearly

15,000 feet above the sea, and was the filthiest place I

have ever seen. We tried to live in the houses, but after

a few days preferred our tents, in spite of the cold, which

was intense, and against which we could not have the

comfort and cheer of a fire, for only sufficient fuel for

cooking could be obtained, most of it being yak-dung, and

much having to be brought from Chumbi. The saving

feature was the grand natural scenery, which was a joy

of which I never tired. Immediately before us was an

almost level and perfectly smooth gravel plain ten or

twelve miles in width, and on the far side of this rose

the great snowy range, which forms the main axis of

the Himalayas, and here separates Tibet from Bhutan.

Snow seldom fell. The sky was generally clear, and

the sunshine brilliant, and well wrapped up, away from

the dirty hamlet and sheltered from the terrific wind,

there was pleasure to be had out of even Tuna. And the

sight of the serene and mighty Chumalhari, rising proudly

above all the storms below and spotless in its purity, was

a never-ending solace in our sordid winter post.

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