国立情報学研究所 - ディジタル・シルクロード・プロジェクト
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India and Tibet : vol.1 | |
インドとチベット : vol.1 |
.,~ . i 1. . ~, ~ Y1;
CROSSING THE TANG-LA 161
tuality ; but as darkness set in and the cold increased in
intensity, we felt we should be pretty helpless in an open
camp, and there were some thoughts of retiring again across
the pass, for the military risks were very great. But, on
the whole, we thought it would be better to face it now
we were there ; and as, next morning, we examined the
hamlet of 'Puna, and found it could be turned into a good
defensible post, and had a well within the walls, we
decided that the Mission should remain there, with an
escort of four companies of the 23rd Pioneers, Lieutenant
Hadow's Maxim-gun detachment, and a 7-pounder-
the whole under Colonel Hogge while General Mac-
donald, with the flying column, returned to Chumbi to
complete his arrangements.
The immediate surroundings in which we now found
ourselves were miserable in the extreme. Tuna was nearly
15,000 feet above the sea, and was the filthiest place I
have ever seen. We tried to live in the houses, but after
a few days preferred our tents, in spite of the cold, which
was intense, and against which we could not have the
comfort and cheer of a fire, for only sufficient fuel for
cooking could be obtained, most of it being yak-dung, and
much having to be brought from Chumbi. The saving
feature was the grand natural scenery, which was a joy
of which I never tired. Immediately before us was an
almost level and perfectly smooth gravel plain ten or
twelve miles in width, and on the far side of this rose
the great snowy range, which forms the main axis of
the Himalayas, and here separates Tibet from Bhutan.
Snow seldom fell. The sky was generally clear, and
the sunshine brilliant, and well wrapped up, away from
the dirty hamlet and sheltered from the terrific wind,
there was pleasure to be had out of even Tuna. And the
sight of the serene and mighty Chumalhari, rising proudly
above all the storms below and spotless in its purity, was
a never-ending solace in our sordid winter post.
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