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0063 India and Tibet : vol.1
インドとチベット : vol.1
India and Tibet : vol.1 / 63 ページ(カラー画像)

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doi: 10.20676/00000295
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VISITS THE GRAND LAMA   37

The answer from the Lhasa magistrate to his request

to be permitted to proceed to Lhasa arrived a few days

after his arrival at Gyantse. A passport was given him,

transport and supplies furnished, and as he neared Lhasa he was met by a 66respectable person on horseback, who

dismounted and saluted," and who had been sent out by

the Tibetan authorities to welcome him and conduct him

to Lhasa.

The view of the Potala, of the lofty, towering palace,

which forms a majestic mountain of a building," excited

his admiration, but if the palace had exceeded his expec-

tations, he says, the town as far fell short of them. There

was nothing striking, nothing pleasing, in its appearance.

The habitations were begrimed with smut and dirt. . . .

In short, everything seemed mean and gloomy, and

excited the idea of something unreal."

His first care was to provide himself with a proper

hat, and, having found one, he proceeded to pay his

RI respects to the Chinese Mandarin. Coming into his

presence, he for the first time in his life performed the

1 ceremony of ketese, or kneeling. The Mandarin received

it him politely, and said he had provided him with quarters.

On the following day he visited two of the chief Tibetan

officials.

On December 17, 1811, he went to the Potala to salute

di the Grand Lama. He took with him as an offering some

broadcloth, two pair of china ewers, and a pair of good

brass candlesticks, which he had clean and furbished

ob up," and into which he put two wax candles to make a

show." He also took thirty new bright dollars, and as

many pieces of zinc," and, besides this, " some genuine

Smith's lavender-water . . . and a good store of Nankin

tea, which is a rarity and delicacy at Lhasa, and not to be

bought there."

Arrived in the great hall he made due obeisance,

touching the ground three times with his head to the

Grand Lama, and once to the Ti-mi-fu. While he was

bowing, the awkward servants contrived to let fall and