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0194 India and Tibet : vol.1
インドとチベット : vol.1
India and Tibet : vol.1 / 194 ページ(カラー画像)

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doi: 10.20676/00000295
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160   DARJILING TO CHUMBI

last campaign against us. Many of our camp-followers

deserted, and local men in our employ brought in stories

of the numbers and prowess of the 'Tibetans, and how

they would attack us in the night and swamp us.

These were the circumstances in which we set out,

now in the extreme depth of winter, to cross over the

main range of the Himalayas into 'Tibet.

On January 7 we encamped at the foot of the pass,

the thermometer that night falling to 18° below zero. As

1 looked out of my tent at the first streak of dawn the t

next morning there was a clear cuffing feel in the atmo-

sphere, such as is only experienced at great altitudes.

The stars were darting out their rays with almost super-

natural brilliance. The sky was of a steely clearness, into

which one could look unfathomable depths. Behind the

great sentinel peak of Chumalhari, which guards the

entrance to 'Tibet, the first streaks of dawn were just

appearing. Not a breath of air stirred, but all was gripped

tight in the frost which turned buckets of water left out

overnight into solid ice, and made the remains of last

night's stew as hard as a rock. Under such conditions

we prepared for our advance over the pass, and as the

troops were formed on parade, preparatory to starting, it

was found that many of the rifles and one of the Maxims

would not work, on account of the oil having frozen.

The rise to the pass was very gradual, and the pass

itself, 15,200 feet above sea-level, was so wide and level that

we could have advanced across it in line. But soon now

the wind got up, and swept along the pass with terrific

force. At this altitude, and clad in such heavy clothing,

we could advance but slowly, and the march seemed in-

terminable. The clearness of the atmosphere made the

little hamlet of Tuna appear quite near ; but hour after

hour we plodded wearily over the plateau, and it was late

in the afternoon before we reached it, and even then, for

the sake of water, we had to go a mile or more beyond,

and encamp in the open.

A Tibetan force was near at hand, and as they were

credited with a habit of attacking at night, General Mac-

donald took special precautions against such an even-