国立情報学研究所 - ディジタル・シルクロード・プロジェクト
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India and Tibet : vol.1 | |
インドとチベット : vol.1 |
310 IMPRESSIONS AT LHASA
useful influence after his arrival from Chumbi, while
Colonel Waddell interested himself in the libraries and in
historical research. As a consequence, when I visited
these monasteries, after the signature of the Treaty, I was
received as if the visit from a British official was the same -
ordinary occurrence as it is in India.
Each monastery is a little town in itself, a compact
block of solidly-built masonry--houses, halls, and temples.
The streets are narrow and not over-clean, but the halls
and temples are spacious. They are mostly of much the
same type, with pagoda-shaped. roofs, painted wooden
pillars, and grotesque demonesque-like figures. In the
De-pun Monastery there were from 8,000 to 10,000 monks,
divided into, I think, four sections, each with its Abbot
and its separate temple hall and institutions.
In outward appearance the monks of some of these
Lhasa monasteries are not prepossessing. They look
coarse and besotted. Some are bright and cordial, but
hardly any look really intellectual or spiritual, and the
general impression I took away was one of dirt and
degradation. Of the higher Lamas, also, my impression
was not favourable as regards their intellectual capacity or
spiritual attainments. The Regent (Ti Rimpoche), with
whom I carried on the negotiations, had great charm. He
was a benevolent, kindly old gentleman, who would not
have hurt a fly if he could have avoided it. No one could
help liking him, but no one could say that he had the
intellectual capacity we would meet with in Brahmins in
India, or the character and bearing one would expect in
the leading man of a country. And his spiritual attain-
ments, I gathered from a long conversation I had with
him after the Treaty was signed, consisted mainly of a
knowledge by rote of vast quantities of his holy books.
The capacity of these Tibetan monks for learning their
sacred books by rote is, indeed, something prodigious ;
though about the actual meaning they trouble themselves
but little.
Some of the Abbots we met were cheery, genial souls,
much as we picture to ourselves the jolly friars of olden
days in England ; but as spiritual leaders of a religious
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