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0382 India and Tibet : vol.1
インドとチベット : vol.1
India and Tibet : vol.1 / 382 ページ(カラー画像)

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doi: 10.20676/00000295
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310   IMPRESSIONS AT LHASA

useful influence after his arrival from Chumbi, while

Colonel Waddell interested himself in the libraries and in

historical research. As a consequence, when I visited

these monasteries, after the signature of the Treaty, I was

received as if the visit from a British official was the same -

ordinary occurrence as it is in India.

Each monastery is a little town in itself, a compact

block of solidly-built masonry--houses, halls, and temples.

The streets are narrow and not over-clean, but the halls

and temples are spacious. They are mostly of much the

same type, with pagoda-shaped. roofs, painted wooden

pillars, and grotesque demonesque-like figures. In the

De-pun Monastery there were from 8,000 to 10,000 monks,

divided into, I think, four sections, each with its Abbot

and its separate temple hall and institutions.

In outward appearance the monks of some of these

Lhasa monasteries are not prepossessing. They look

coarse and besotted. Some are bright and cordial, but

hardly any look really intellectual or spiritual, and the

general impression I took away was one of dirt and

degradation. Of the higher Lamas, also, my impression

was not favourable as regards their intellectual capacity or

spiritual attainments. The Regent (Ti Rimpoche), with

whom I carried on the negotiations, had great charm. He

was a benevolent, kindly old gentleman, who would not

have hurt a fly if he could have avoided it. No one could

help liking him, but no one could say that he had the

intellectual capacity we would meet with in Brahmins in

India, or the character and bearing one would expect in

the leading man of a country. And his spiritual attain-

ments, I gathered from a long conversation I had with

him after the Treaty was signed, consisted mainly of a

knowledge by rote of vast quantities of his holy books.

The capacity of these Tibetan monks for learning their

sacred books by rote is, indeed, something prodigious ;

though about the actual meaning they trouble themselves

but little.

Some of the Abbots we met were cheery, genial souls,

much as we picture to ourselves the jolly friars of olden

days in England ; but as spiritual leaders of a religious