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0186 India and Tibet : vol.1
インドとチベット : vol.1
India and Tibet : vol.1 / 186 ページ(カラー画像)

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doi: 10.20676/00000295
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152   DARJILING TO CHUMBI

comforters, thick jerseys, and warm socks, were provided

for both fighting men and followers. If the Government

of India does a thing at all, it does it well, and nothing

was spared—except the mules—to make the movement a

success.

The local authorities were also extremely helpful.

Mr. Walsh, the Deputy Commissioner of Darjiling, on

account of his knowledge of the frontier, and because he

spoke Tibetan, was to accompany me as an Assistant

Commissioner ; and Mr. Garrett, who took his place at

Darjiling, put his whole energies to collecting coolies,

ponies, and supplies. The local engineers got the road

along the Teesta Valley—which with unfailing regularity

falls into the river in the rainy season—into proper work-

ing order again. Mr. White, in Sikkim, set to work to

raise a coolie corps for work on the passes. And in a

month from the date of receiving the sanction of the

Secretary of State, General Macdonald was able, in spite

of the blow which had befallen him in the loss of the

yaks, to make the start towards Tibet.

It was a sad day when I said good-bye to my wife and

little girl to plunge into the unknown beyond the mighty

snowy range which lay before us. To me there was

nothing but the stir and thrill of an enterprise which

would ever live in history ; before her there lay only long

and dreary months of sickening anxiety and suspense, for

which my eventual success might or might not be a

sufficient recompense. A little knot of visitors assembled

at the Rockville Hotel on the morning of December 5 to

bid us good-bye and good luck, and Mrs. Wakefield, the

manageress, patriotically waved a Union Jack. Then we

were off—as it turned out, to the mysterious Lhasa itself.

The first night I passed with Mr. James, a nephew of

my old travelling, companion in Manchuria, at a most

charming little bungalow in a tea-plantation, and on the

way met other tea-planters, all very anxious that my

Mission would have the result of opening up Tibet for

their produce. I once more rode through all that glorious

tropical vegetation in the Teesta Valley. I passed the

camp of the 23rd Pioneers, and first made the acquaintance