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0136 India and Tibet : vol.1
インドとチベット : vol.1
India and Tibet : vol.1 / 136 ページ(カラー画像)

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doi: 10.20676/00000295
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108   SIMLA TO KHAMBA JONG

We remained only a few days in Gantok, and then

pushed on toward the 'Tibetan frontier, for we were well

on in the summer now, and we wanted, if possible, to get

the matter settled before winter. The rain never ceased :

bucketfuls and bucketfuls came drenching down. The

ordinary waterproofing in which we wrapped our luggage

was soaked through as if it had been paper. In the valley

bottom we passed the camp of the 32nd Pioneers engaged

in improving the road, and anything more depressing and

miserable I have never seen. 'Tents, clothes, furniture—

everything was soaking. The heat was stifling, the insect

pests unbearable. Fever sapped the life out of the men,

and one shuddered at the misery of life under such condi-

tions : day after day, week after week, month after month,

digging and blasting away at a road which as soon as it

was made was washed into the river again ; wet through

with rain and with perspiration while at work, and finding

everything equally moist on returning to camp ; tormented

with insect pests at work and in camp by night and by

day. Yet it was only by mastering such conditions as

these that the eventual settlement with Tibet was ever

rendered possible.

Fortunately for them, some 200 were now to leave

these dismal surroundings and accompany me to the

Tibetan frontier as escort. We marched on up the valley

by a road carried in many places along the side of preci-

pices overhanging the roaring river, and with neither wall

nor railing intervening between one and destruction.

Only in Hunza, beyond Kashmir, have I seen a more pre-

carious roadway. The same luxuriant vegetation extended

everywhere. But what impressed me most in this middle

region of Sikkim were the glorious waterfalls. Never

anywhere have I seen their equal. We were in the midst

of the rains. The torrents were full to the limit, and they

would come, boiling, foaming, thundering down the moun-

tain-sides in long series of cascades, gleaming white through

the ever-green forest, and festooned over and framed with

every graceful form of palm and fern and foliage.

And now, as we reached the higher regions, the loath-

some leeches, the mosquitoes, gnats, and midges, were left