国立情報学研究所 - ディジタル・シルクロード・プロジェクト
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India and Tibet : vol.1 | |
インドとチベット : vol.1 |
108 SIMLA TO KHAMBA JONG
We remained only a few days in Gantok, and then
pushed on toward the 'Tibetan frontier, for we were well
on in the summer now, and we wanted, if possible, to get
the matter settled before winter. The rain never ceased :
bucketfuls and bucketfuls came drenching down. The
ordinary waterproofing in which we wrapped our luggage
was soaked through as if it had been paper. In the valley
bottom we passed the camp of the 32nd Pioneers engaged
in improving the road, and anything more depressing and
miserable I have never seen. 'Tents, clothes, furniture—
everything was soaking. The heat was stifling, the insect
pests unbearable. Fever sapped the life out of the men,
and one shuddered at the misery of life under such condi-
tions : day after day, week after week, month after month,
digging and blasting away at a road which as soon as it
was made was washed into the river again ; wet through
with rain and with perspiration while at work, and finding
everything equally moist on returning to camp ; tormented
with insect pests at work and in camp by night and by
day. Yet it was only by mastering such conditions as
these that the eventual settlement with Tibet was ever
rendered possible.
Fortunately for them, some 200 were now to leave
these dismal surroundings and accompany me to the
Tibetan frontier as escort. We marched on up the valley
by a road carried in many places along the side of preci-
pices overhanging the roaring river, and with neither wall
nor railing intervening between one and destruction.
Only in Hunza, beyond Kashmir, have I seen a more pre-
carious roadway. The same luxuriant vegetation extended
everywhere. But what impressed me most in this middle
region of Sikkim were the glorious waterfalls. Never
anywhere have I seen their equal. We were in the midst
of the rains. The torrents were full to the limit, and they
would come, boiling, foaming, thundering down the moun-
tain-sides in long series of cascades, gleaming white through
the ever-green forest, and festooned over and framed with
every graceful form of palm and fern and foliage.
And now, as we reached the higher regions, the loath-
some leeches, the mosquitoes, gnats, and midges, were left
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