国立情報学研究所 - ディジタル・シルクロード・プロジェクト
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India and Tibet : vol.1 | |
インドとチベット : vol.1 |
ARRIVAL IN SIKKIM 331
territory. In all they accurately surveyed 40,000 square
miles of territory. And after crossing the Himalayas by
the Ayi-la (pass), 18,700 feet, in deep snow and with the
thermometer 24° below zero, they reached British territory
on Christmas Eve, and Simla on January 11. It was a
good piece of work, magnificently executed, for which the
greatest credit is due to both Captain Rawling and
Captain Ryder, and it was an immense relief to hear of
their safe arrival in spite of the risks of hostility and of
cold.
In the meanwhile Messrs. White, Walsh, Wilton, and
myself had proceeded on to India. It was fairly cold even
as we crossed the Tang-la, the thermometer not being
much above zero, but we were fortunate to escape the
blizzard, the 3 feet of snow, and 27° of frost which General
Macdonald and the troops experienced a week or two
later, and which caused the death of two men and about
200 cases of snow-blindness.
We had a long, steep, cold ride over our final pass—
the Nathu-la—and then we rode down and down through
all the glorious Sikkim vegetation into soft and balmy
ease. A scientific gentleman once asked what was the
chief effect of being a long time at high altitudes, and I
told him the principal effect was a desire to get to a lower
altitude as soon as possible. Now that we were back at
ordinary human altitudes, bathed in delicious air and
basking in the glorious sunshine, we realized what the
strain of those high levels, combined with the biting cold,
had been. Life seemed so easy now. There was no more
unconscious effort in breathing ; rio more conscious fighting
against the cold. Existence was once again a pleasure,
and in the best season of the year, amid the most splendid
scenery in the world, with snowy peaks rising sheer out
of tropical forests into a cloudless sky, there was little
more a man could wish.
But in the midst of this dream of ease, and just the
very day before I reached Darjiling, came the rude shock
that the best points I had obtained at Lhasa were to be
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