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0405 India and Tibet : vol.1
インドとチベット : vol.1
India and Tibet : vol.1 / 405 ページ(カラー画像)

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doi: 10.20676/00000295
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ARRIVAL IN SIKKIM   331

territory. In all they accurately surveyed 40,000 square

miles of territory. And after crossing the Himalayas by

the Ayi-la (pass), 18,700 feet, in deep snow and with the

thermometer 24° below zero, they reached British territory

on Christmas Eve, and Simla on January 11. It was a

good piece of work, magnificently executed, for which the

greatest credit is due to both Captain Rawling and

Captain Ryder, and it was an immense relief to hear of

their safe arrival in spite of the risks of hostility and of

cold.

In the meanwhile Messrs. White, Walsh, Wilton, and

myself had proceeded on to India. It was fairly cold even

as we crossed the Tang-la, the thermometer not being

much above zero, but we were fortunate to escape the

blizzard, the 3 feet of snow, and 27° of frost which General

Macdonald and the troops experienced a week or two

later, and which caused the death of two men and about

200 cases of snow-blindness.

We had a long, steep, cold ride over our final pass—

the Nathu-la—and then we rode down and down through

all the glorious Sikkim vegetation into soft and balmy

ease. A scientific gentleman once asked what was the

chief effect of being a long time at high altitudes, and I

told him the principal effect was a desire to get to a lower

altitude as soon as possible. Now that we were back at

ordinary human altitudes, bathed in delicious air and

basking in the glorious sunshine, we realized what the

strain of those high levels, combined with the biting cold,

had been. Life seemed so easy now. There was no more

unconscious effort in breathing ; rio more conscious fighting

against the cold. Existence was once again a pleasure,

and in the best season of the year, amid the most splendid

scenery in the world, with snowy peaks rising sheer out

of tropical forests into a cloudless sky, there was little

more a man could wish.

But in the midst of this dream of ease, and just the

very day before I reached Darjiling, came the rude shock

that the best points I had obtained at Lhasa were to be