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0325 India and Tibet : vol.1
インドとチベット : vol.1
India and Tibet : vol.1 / 325 ページ(カラー画像)

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doi: 10.20676/00000295
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PROCESSION THROUGH LHASA '265

a problem. His residence was on the far side of the

city, and the point was whether we should ride through

Lhasa or round it. It was risky to ride through this

sacred city, swarming with monks who had organized the

opposition against us. We had been so recently fighting

against them that we could not be sure of their attitude.

Peace was not yet concluded, and they had shown no

signs, so far, of really negotiating, but had, on the con-

trary, been doing their best to stave us off from Lhasa.

So our reception was uncertain, and, if anything hap-

pened to us, the matter-of-fact, common-sense person at

home would, without compunction, have criticized me for

running the risk without any necessity. But from my

point of view there was a necessity. All this trouble had

arisen through the Tibetans being so inaccessible and

keeping themselves so much apart ; and now I meant to

close in with them, to break through their seclusion, to

brush aside their exclusiveness, and to let them see us and

us see them as the inhabitants of the rest of the world see

each other ; and I meant to make a beginning at once.

So I determined now, on the very first day after our

arrival, to ride right through the heart of the city of

Lhasa.

The Chinese Resident sent his bodyguard with pikes,

and three-pronged spears, and many banners to escort us,

and of our own troops I took two companies of the Royal

Fusiliers and the 2nd Mounted Infantry. Two guns and

four companies of infantry were also kept in readiness in

camp to support us at a moment's notice.

Many a traveller had pined to look on Lhasa, but now

we were actually in this sacred city, it was, except for the

Potala, a sorry affair. The streets were filthily dirty, and

the inhabitants hardly more clean than the streets ; the

houses were built of solid masonry, but as dirty as the

streets and inhabitants ; and the temples we passed, though

massive, were ungainly. Only the Potala was imposing ;

it rose from the squalid town at its base in tier upon tier

of solid, massive masonry, and, without any pretence at

architectural beauty or symmetry, was impressive from its

sheer size and strength and dominating situation.